Hi friends! As you may know, I have the opportunity to sew and promote with Amelia Lane Fabrics, and just got this gorgeous delivery of both new promo fabric and fabric I’ve purchased. Aren’t the colors just gorgeous!? The Magnolia floral liverpool (second from the right) is our Thrifty Thursday print, so I decided to make a bomber jacket with it using a thrifty FREE pattern, the Reversible Mood Bomber Jacket. I ordered the Avery liverpool (far left) for the reverse side of the jacket, and the jacket was featured on ALD’s blog!
To start off, I’ll warn that this isn’t a pattern for beginner sewists in my opinion; Mood is often pretty scarce with the instructions. There are also some interesting features to this jacket, two most notably. The side seam is not directly on the side, it is moved forward so the “side seam pockets” are more towards the front. Also, the collar is almost a v-neck, as opposed to the typical rounded shape. I should also note that Mood has an excerpt saying that they’ve updated this pattern. I looked at the updated one and it is more traditional (curved neck, welt pockets) but it’s not reversible so I stuck with this one.
Here she is! My finished Mood Bomber 😀 I sewed my measured size and did not size down even though using a knit (instead of the wovens they use in the tutorial), and I’m happy with the relaxed fit.
Without further ado, here is how to sew the jacket, via their instruction order, with my additions in italic next to them. (These are summarized and I did not insert their photos; see their full post here.) They also forget to mention in the tutorial (but added in the comments) that the Seam Allowance is 1/2″. You will likely still need to use their tutorial/photos, but I made a bunch of additions here!
- If making the women’s cut of this jacket, begin by sewing the darts. I skipped this as I wanted a looser jacket.
- Sew the pockets onto the bottom corners of the front and back panels, right sides together … The longer side of the pocket pieces should run along the bottom of the jacket, not the sides. My additions here: add strips of interfacing to the main panels as I am using a knit. This helps support the weight and shape of the pocket.
- After sewing the pocket to the main panel, I opened flat and zig zag stitched the POCKET through the Seam Allowance. This helps it lay flat and mitigates the dreaded poofy side seam pocket look. Ignore my presser foot location in the picture below, see where the stitching is: on the RIGHT.
- Place the front and back panels right sides together, lining up the pockets from the bottom. Sew [the side seam, around the pocket].
- Pin and/or staystitch the pocket toward the front panel. I basted mine so the stayed put; you’re working with a lot of layers here, so I recommend it so everything doesn’t shift!
- If using lining for your outer layer sleeves, reinforce them with interfacing before sewing them together (This step threw me – I skipped it as the jacket is reversible!)
- Attach the front and back panels at the shoulders and attach the sleeves. Mood has you sewing sleeves in the round here, not my favorite. I’d reorder the steps to attach flat if I made this pattern again, personal preference.
- Follow steps 1-6 for the lining [aka the reverse side]
- Pin and sew the rib knit collar to the right sides of both the lining and the outer layer. Make sure to mind your seam allowance and sew exactly to a point so there isn’t holes in the collar!
- Sew the long ends of your cuffs together to create the tube. [Place] a cuff inside one of the sleeves, right sides together. The cuff should NOT be folded in half as you normally would, keep it long. Sew the cuff while stretching it [to fit].
- Attach the cuff to the sleeve lining the same way; however, since the other end of it is now attached to the outer layer, it takes some interesting maneuvering [see their photo]. Basically, you pull the cuff through, flip the un-sewn end Wrong Sides together, and insert it into the liner/reverse side arm hole. The picture makes a lot more sense. Make SURE that your sleeves and cuffs are flat so that nothing is twisted!
- NOTE: Mood says to do the waistband next; I did the waistband LAST, so that I could leave a hole for flipping the jacket right side out.
- Turn the jacket right-side out and sew in a reversible zipper to complete your new bomber! There’s no instruction for sewing in the zipper, so I unzipped it and sandwiched it between the two layers. I serged the bottom edge of the front piece to close the sandwich, and sewed the zipper using my zipper foot.
- Lastly, I sewed the bottom band all the way around, starting with the short edges and turning, then the long edges. I left a hole (marked by the scissors in the photo below) to turn the jacket out. Once turned, hand sew the gap shut.
Excuse the craft room mess, but here’s the masterpiece!
Thanks for sewing with me today friends, and hopefully I cleared up a few things in sewing this pattern, I know I was confused by a few steps!!